Of all the Italian fashion houses, Curiel is one of those, which mostly affected the events of Italian aesthetics with an accurate, confident and recognisable style. The exhibition Curiel – History and Future was successfully held on Sep. 8th, 2016. Curated by Silvestrin & Associati, the exhibition develops in a long story-telling that aims to focus the attention on some “fixed stars” in the poetics of the maison.
Sketches of Gigliola Curiel in 1940s
Movement, beauty, serenity. Concepts recurring over and over again in the all-female saga going through four generations. A cosmopolitan sensitivity and a sense of prettiness arise from the Central European Trieste by Ortensia Curiel – the first designer of Curiel, whose atelier is just next to the bookshop of Umberto Saba – coinciding with the definition that Italo Calvino gives of lightness in his Lezioni Americane: “authority without weight”.
Celebrities attend La Scala in Curiel evening dress in 1950s
1945, first in via Durini and then in via Borgogna,the second-generation designer of Curiel family, Gigliola Curiel soon becomes an unavoidable benchmark for upper class ladies who fall in love with those fluid dresses emanating a calm yet well-defined sophistication as well as flair and a millimetre-accurate tailoring technique, giving out that joyful pleasure of things improving over time. At the time of the Italian economic boom, in the late Fifties and early Sixties, Curiel’s garments are key characters at La Scala’s premieres and in high society gatherings during rites officiated in the most prestigious and hidden places of the city.
Model in Curiel evening dress in 1950s.
Creator of Made in Italy even before the phrase “Made in Italy” was coined, Gigliola Curiel is the first Italian designer granting exclusivity to the prestigious department store Bergdorf & Goodman in New York and to Harrods in London.
Gigliola’ daughter Raffaella joined her in 1961. Raffaella opened her atelier in Corso Matteotti, where it still is. Raffaella’s clients are big names, leading figures of the world’s elite, but she refuses to mention them, as ‘it would not be appropriate’. Rumours and leaks in those years claim that she even received a call from Hillary Clinton, who would love to wear Curiel but she can’t, as the First lady’s protocol imposes them to only wear American designers’ clothes.
The exhibition displayed a selection of garments made over the years but unified by a dialogic relationship with the world of Art. Garments dedicated to and inspired by the works of Jim Dine, Picasso, Klimt, Frida Kahlo, Depero, Chagall are examples of that “Fashion-Culture” of which the brand Curiel has been forerunner and inventor. Not least is the section named after La Scala: it includes luxury evening gowns worn for the premiere of legendary operas, as legendary as the gowns worn by high society and aristocratic ladies who chose and loved them.
Scenes from “Curiel—History and Future” exhibition
At the cocktail of exhibition opening, a thousand of celebrities, loyal clients and international press journalists were welcomed to see the historical and legendary brand’s excellent masterpieces and promising future. Among the most important guests are Mr. Lamberto Dini, former Prime Minister of Italy and his wife Mrs. Donatella Dini, Mr. Beppe Modenese, honorary President of Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana, Mr. Mario Boselli, former President of Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana, and, Mr. Pier Luigi Pizzi, famous Italian opera director, and so on.
Ms. Gigliola Castellini Curiel; Mr. Zhao Yizheng, President of RedStone Haute Couture; Ms. Raffaella Curiel (from left)
Mr. Lamberto Dini, former Prime Minister of Italy; Mrs. Donatella Dini, wife of Mr. Lamberto Dini; Mr. Zhao Yizheng, President of Redstone Haute Couture; Ms. Raffaella Curiel (from left)
Ms. Li Linge, Vice President of RedStone Haute Couture; Mr. Lamberto Dini, former Prime Minister of Italy; Mrs. Donatella Dini, wife of Mr. Lamberto Dini (from left)
Mr. Zhao Yizheng, President of Redstone Haute Couture; Ms. Gigliola Castellini Curiel; Mr. Beppe Modenese, honorary President of Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana (from left)
Mr. Zhao Yizheng, President of Redstone Haute Couture; Mr. Mario Boselli, former President of Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana; Ms. Raffaella Curiel; Mr. Gaetano Marzotto, heir of Marzotto family; Ms. Albertina Bertele (from left)
Ms. Rosanna Daolio, founder of GIADA; Mr. Mario Boselli, former President of Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana; Ms. Li Linge, Vice President of RedStone Haute Couture; Mr. Zhao Yizheng, President of Redstone Haute Couture(from left)
Ms. Bedy Moratti, actress, heir of Moratti family
Ms. Ariela Goggi, Deputy Editor in Chief of Vogue Italia
Redstone Group and Curiel Srl had signed an agreement which have led to the creation of the new company Curiel Ltd. Raffaella and Gigliola Curiel will assure continuity to the values, vision and style of the four-generation-old family company, while Redstone will provide its consolidate luxury market expertise, brand management organization and financial capacity. Redstone’s main objectives are to preserve and enhance the Italian creativity, craftsmanship and heritage which are unique in Curiel, and to develop the brand in Italy, China and on the international markets. The first showroom will be opened in Milan, and more openings will follow in Shanghai, New York, Paris and London.
Four brilliant ladies created and developed the Italian haute couture brand Curiel, which is like a priceless diamond hidden in the mountains. The marriage between Curiel and Redstone will reveal the diamond, and make it shine gorgeously on the peak of the world of haute couture.